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Evo 8 acd/ayc lights

20K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  Ads9 
#1 · (Edited)
So my 8 decided to show the dreaded 3 ayc lights :smthumbdo

I have had a search and had a look for corrosion inside the plugs in the passenger footwell as mentioned in a couple of threads on here
All the plugs are fine no sign of corrosion, carpet was a little damp underneath but all plugs and wiring was bone dry

evoscan decided to give me every possible ayc fault code :wallbang:
no idea what that could mean other than a faulty ayc ecu?

copied from evoscan today

Updated: 15:31:47
Diagnostic Codes:12 Val. Power Supply
0xC0 And 0x02 Unknown DTC
26 Speed Sensor
25 Deformed Tyre
24 Rear Left Sensor Open
23 Rear Right Sensor Open
22 Front Left Sensor Open
21 Front Right Sensor Open
0xC1 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
0xC1 And 0x02 Unknown DTC
0xC1 And 0x04 Unknown DTC
41 TPS Open
34 ST-1,2 Short
33 Fixed ST-N High
32 ST-N Short
31 ST Sensor Open
0xC2 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
65 ABS Monitor
0xC2 And 0x04 Unknown DTC
61 Stop Lamp Switch
0xC2 And 0x10 Unknown DTC
56 G Force Sensor (Lateral)
52 G Force Sensor (Stick)
51 G Force Sensor (Straight)
0xC3 And 0x01 Unknown DTC
83 Pump Fail 2
82 Pump Fail 1
81 Pump Relay
0xC3 And 0x10 Unknown DTC
73 Left Direct Valve
72 Right Direct Valve
71 Proportion. Valve

:rotz:

Any thoughts guys?

Also the 3 lights initially come on with the abs light when the n/s/r abs ring failed about a month ago
so we used the 6 daily and rarely used the 8 as no abs in the icy weather we had was not a great idea

that was replaced friday and abs light cleared on the dash but the ayc lights still indicating a fault
 
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#2 ·
are the lights on right away when you start the car or do they show up after a while?

if they are on right away it is probably something electrical or the pressure sensor.. but could be something else..

if it shows up after a bit of time after you start the car then it is probably pump corrosion.
in that case try testing the pump with the quick test involving the full throttle pedal test..

turn off the car, apply full throttle, turn the ignition to on (dont start the car) and wait for the pump to switch on... if it starts and makes a continuous noise, without slowing down then it has lost pressure, needs to be overhauled..
If it doesnt start at all then it might be stuck or have an electrical problem..

also check the pump fuse..
 
#3 ·
The lights come on when you start driving they have never come on when ignition has been turned on you can select between tarmac gravel and snow

I have just tried the full throttle test multiple times and I never heard the pump operate, the list of fault codes seems rather large for just a pump to fail:confused:
 
#7 ·
finally got around to reading the codes

codes from ayc
82 - Pump malfunction or sensor failure

codes from abs
13 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system (open- or short-circuit) 35B-8
23 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system 35B-8
24 Wheel speed sensor (RL) system 35B-8

disconnected the battery and drove half a mile down the road

same codes re appeared

also just to relitterate the lights all appeared at once when the rr abs reluctor ring failed had that replaced abs light extenguised but ayc still illuminating

possible the abs sensors causing the ayc to fail

tried the throttle to the floor test and no noises from ayc pump:wallbang:
 
#8 ·
finally got around to reading the codes

codes from ayc
82 - Pump malfunction or sensor failure

codes from abs
13 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system (open- or short-circuit) 35B-8
23 Wheel speed sensor (RR) system 35B-8
24 Wheel speed sensor (RL) system 35B-8

disconnected the battery and drove half a mile down the road

same codes re appeared

also just to relitterate the lights all appeared at once when the rr abs reluctor ring failed had that replaced abs light extenguised but ayc still illuminating

possible the abs sensors causing the ayc to fail

tried the throttle to the floor test and no noises from ayc pump:wallbang:
Ok, im not sure on this, but I have a feeling that disconnecting the battery doesnt clear ABS codes, but I could be wrong. If the ABS lights not on (but obviously comes on with ignition, then goes off and stays off) that would imply abs is working

Which leaves the expected Pump failure for the AYC

Only my take on it though, could well be wrong

Stu
 
#10 ·
Easy way to test if your ABS is actually working is to drive on gravel ;)
We assume it is as no abs light on :mhihi:
Pump should make noise as its priming with car off /foot on ze gas pedal as mentioned ......points towards dreaded pump issue , rebuild can be done DIY with kit if you're brave enough :mhihi:
Best of luck :thumbup:
 
#11 ·
Easy way to test if your ABS is actually working is to drive on gravel ;)
We assume it is as no abs light on :mhihi:
Pump should make noise as its priming with car off /foot on ze gas pedal as mentioned ......points towards dreaded pump issue , rebuild can be done DIY with kit if you're brave enough :mhihi:
Best of luck [emoji106]
Cheers bud i know the abs is working weird how the codes stay in the ecu[emoji30]

Sent from my F8331 using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
How can you test the abs code?
I only have a paper clip at the min?
My acd lights are also on :( richey has been helping me with my issues too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
same as you get code for ayc and engine light mate

just bridge 1 and 4 on obd and count the flashes when ignition is on

a constant flash means no codes
 
#18 ·
Decided to bite the bullet and go back to basics as you rightly suggested.... and LH front senor is >17k Ohm all 3 others are in spec at 1.3k Ohms and produce about 10mV when rocking the car.
Also checked my front passenger footwell and found some old evidence of water in the infamous plug but all connections were OK as I removed the pins from the plugs to check.

Hoping a new ABS sensor sorts the light out but Ross Sport aren't back until the 3rd. :eek

Going to rebuild the pump over the coming days anyhow.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#20 ·
Minor update. As with the OP I had 2 faults; one was corrosion inside the pump and the other being a knackered (open circuit) Front LH ABS sensor.

I had earlier flashed out the fault does by linking pins 1 and 4 (or pin 1 to ground) but got a load of different faults which really wasn't helpful. I would suggest resetting the ABS ECU's fault memory manually as it turns out Evoscan doesn't do this when using the "Clear DTC" feature.....

Dead easy, it's detailed in the workshop manual:
Foot on brake, ignition on (but don't start car), 2 seconds later release brake pedal and pump 10 times. Ignition off and and then back on. If the ABS light goes out after 3-5 seconds then all is good (or it's not a hard fault), if not flash out again and it will only show active faults and/ or be ready to show them when the car next drives.

Hope this helps someone!
 
#21 ·
Minor update. As with the OP I had 2 faults; one was corrosion inside the pump and the other being a knackered (open circuit) Front LH ABS sensor.

I had earlier flashed out the fault does by linking pins 1 and 4 (or pin 1 to ground) but got a load of different faults which really wasn't helpful. I would suggest resetting the ABS ECU's fault memory manually as it turns out Evoscan doesn't do this when using the "Clear DTC" feature.....

Dead easy, it's detailed in the workshop manual:
Foot on brake, ignition on (but don't start car), 2 seconds later release brake pedal and pump 10 times. Ignition off and and then back on. If the ABS light goes out after 3-5 seconds then all is good (or it's not a hard fault), if not flash out again and it will only show active faults and/ or be ready to show them when the car next drives.

Hope this helps someone!
Glad you found the fault and it's sorted happy days good start to the new year

Just thinking out loud here

If there was a abs sensor fault and threw a code into the ecu, shouldn't that also throw the ayc lights as ayc ecu needs abs sensors working to operate?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#27 ·
Reluctor rings are fine, 100% a Front LH sensor fault. Interested to see how long this sensor lasts....

All fitted and no ABS warning light now :headbang2:cry:
Ironically the worst bit of changing the sensor was the retaining bolt shearing in the hub :cry:

Here's how I did it, may help someone!?

Wheel off and remove 12mm retaining nut (hopefully comes straight out).
Chisel between the sensor and hub, snapped the top clean off.
Removed the driveshaft nut and tapped the driveshaft as far back as it would go. This is to keep the ring from being anywhere near the sensor remains and forthcoming.....

Small chisel into the top of the sensor with a hammer and it breaks out in 3 sections of which the last piece will drop out and be stuck between the driveshaft and hub.

You're left with the remains of the plastic casing/ sleeve in the hub. Chisel again to break this up and you can then poke the last piece of the sensor back out through the hole.

Round file to take back all of the corrosion in the hole as the new sensor will not go in.
Compressor to blow out the debris and then do the driveshaft nut back up.
Apply some anti seize/ corrosion paste (copper slip, etc) in the hole and fit the new sensor with retaining bolt.

Drop the arch liner and undo the plug, carefully remove the existing wiring and replace.

Turn on the ignition and the ABS light should go out within 5 seconds.

Arch liner back on, wheel back on and time for a drive!
 
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