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Old 05-02-2018, 07:48   #1
Ads9
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Multi tooth trigger wheels

I see Ross Sport sell a 12-1 trigger wheel (although at the best part of £90 ) and as my belts are due later this year it got me thinking about changing from the stock trigger to one with a higher count.
In theory I should see less ignition drift and improved stability at lower engine speeds, so a benefit is there albeit small- the only downside, other than cost, is having to cut a tooth off the cam trigger for sync.

Anyone actually changed to this setup and able to comment on pro/ cons?
Car is in the 500’s and on a Link G4+
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:26   #2
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Nobody changed trigger setups??
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Old 07-02-2018, 09:24   #3
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I went with a kiggly one on mine, it hasn't got the missing tooth but it's a better design using a replacement cam sensor instead
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Old 02-03-2018, 15:32   #4
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Think I’ve seen that kit- am I right in saying it won’t work with a balance belt in place?

Hoping someone would chime in and report some improvement over the stock 4 point trigger. In theory it should idle slightly better and give better transient ignition control
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Old 03-03-2018, 00:08   #5
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Looking into doing this on my own car and have already designed a new wheel to use with the stock sensor.
How soon do you need it?

BTW - in answer to your initial question, in my experience it does help with various aspects of the tune, but you can't really "feel" them.
Because the accuracy for position is improved the ignition angle is more accurate, therefore I've found (like on the RB motors when you convert from CAS to crank mounted trigger wheels) you can get away with a bit more ignition as it doesn't drift.
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:16   #6
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Looked into this years ago for my six. But just stayed with the std one. No problem at all to big hp
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Old 03-03-2018, 22:27   #7
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Definitely worth doing with aftermarket ecu

The ecu knows exactly whete the crank is

18-1 works well on stock sensor

GR performance sell the triggers at a good price
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:13   #8
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Definitely worth doing. Ours are genuine GpA Evo 6 parts hence the cost.
The upside being that they are pressed like the originals so no need for shimd behind the sensor like most of the other types available.
We’ve tested a few over the years and found these to be the best design & fit.
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Old 26-03-2018, 08:40   #9
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Will the stock sensor be ok with so many teeth and 9500 rpm?
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Old 28-03-2018, 18:03   #10
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I run a multi tooth trigger too with syvecs works great
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Old 29-03-2018, 08:39   #11
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I’ve bought an 18-1 from Ross so should be fitting it over the weekend along with belts. I’ll post up once it’s on and running, just need to determine which piece of the cam sensor to chop off now..
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Old 30-03-2018, 07:53   #12
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You could do a how to with pics
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Old 30-03-2018, 20:39   #13
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Be interested to hear the results, looking into this myself.
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Old 07-04-2019, 17:28   #14
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I eventually got around to doing this....

I bought an 18-1 wheel from Ross, along with some HKS belts and a new tensioner.

Process was very simple, belts as per normal, fit the new trigger (needed de-burring and a little bit of filing to the keyway) to get it onto the crank, confirm the crank sensor isn't touching as the new disc is slightly thicker. I also need to check that it wouldn't foul the balance belt, but this disc has the same stepped profile as the OE.
FYI the mole grips are on the oil pump to ensure that it can't rotate as I know it's already correct (and if you've ever driven a 4G63 with it incorrect you'll be in no doubt it's wrong!) as the TT 3" elbow and S214b prevent access to the inspection bolt on the front of the block.

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You then need to measure the angle from the leading edge of the tooth after the gap to the sensor itself, with the engine at TDC, to give you a guide to the initial base timing when you get ready to try starting...

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This part may vary, but in the case of a Link G4+ you can use the trigger scope facility to help identify which tooth to chop off. This needs to be done to allow the ECU to sync which cycle of the 720 degree process it is in. With the Link it is/ was important to have this signal change state when the crank is low, i.e. they don't happen at the same time.

The Evo has 2 teeth on the Cam trigger and one is bigger than the other. I decided to remove the small tooth for several reasons- less to cut off, if I need to adjust the remaining tooth there is more metal to start with and the scope indicated the rising edge on this tooth was close to the middle of my crank trigger anyway.

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I was able to get the trigger out without removing the rad top hose, but it was very tight and I had to squash the hose down.

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Obviously changes to the trigger setup are required, these aren't complicated either but essentially its a change from Evo to multi tooth/ missing and trig 1 as priority.
Then setup up the 2 trigger inputs to suit (both are optical/ hall, require pull up on) Trig 1 is the crank, rising edge and then enter the total teeth and how many are missing. Trig 2 is Cam Pulse 1x and in my case, rising. The trigger offset needs adjusting to get 0 @ TDC, but you need somewhere to start from (hence the protractor!) and I had 120 degrees.


The next step is to disable the injectors (unplug the ballast resistor is the easiest thing to to do), hook up a timing light and crank the engine over. At a glance this looked close enough. It is possible, according to the manuals, to be 360 out with the sync in which case you'd add 360 to 120 and put that as the offset. If this happens I would expect that you could flip the cam sensor 180 and change the offset back to 120.
Then it's go time, replace the ballast and see if she starts.

Once it's warm you will need to calibrate TDC, this is very straight forward in the Link and I ended up at 131 degrees.

Couple of other tips; if you're running COP and have a spare coil and old HT lead you can get the engine to run on 3 cylinders. Unplug the coil and injector for cyl 1, hook the coil up with the HT lead and an old plug and connect the timing light as this saves messing about removing the whole cop kit and unbolting coil 1.


Overall, I'd say worth doing. I don't have an idle valve so low speed engine control is very important to me as its done by fuelling and timing in the ECU. With the ECU going from 4 to 17 points of reference I've found the car idles smoother. That aside, the main benefit as I understand it, is less likelihood of timing drift, so something towards lowering the chances of detonation which can only be a good thing.
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Old 11-06-2019, 11:45   #15
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Hey guys needed some help too. Have just installed the 18 tooth trigger wheel from Ross and I'm on Link G4+ have cut off the smaller Cam reluctor. But still can't get the car to start... Any ideas?
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