Replacing Crank sensor - Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum
 
 

Go Back   Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum > Technical > Technical Questions

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 24-04-2019, 10:22   #1
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Replacing Crank sensor

Is there a guide or video that anyone can recommend on replacing the Crank sensor on an Evo VII?

Thanks.
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 24-04-2019, 11:12   #2
Ads9
Senior User
 
Ads9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gatwick
Car: EVO IX FQ320, Honda Fireblade & Nissan Navara
My Car
Posts: 2,156
The workshop manuals are on the home page and the worst part by far will be getting the timing covers off IMO.
Aux belt off, power steering pump off (3 bolts on the pump and 4 on the bracket)
Engine mount off, jack underneath.
Waterpump pulley off, crank pulley off, aux belt idler off (may need to lower the engine to get the bolt out)
Then you can get the covers off, 2 small bolts and the sensor is out.
When were the belts last done?
Ads9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24-04-2019, 12:27   #3
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Thanks for the reply and the information.

Belts last done in November 2018


Don't know if I can face all this but car won't start.
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 24-04-2019, 12:54   #4
Ads9
Senior User
 
Ads9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gatwick
Car: EVO IX FQ320, Honda Fireblade & Nissan Navara
My Car
Posts: 2,156
For what it costs and the sake of trying, have you tried a new battery or even jump leads from another car thats running? You'd be amazed at the faults and niggles you can get if the battery isn't 100%
You can prove/ disprove the crank sensor if you pull a coil pack and put a spark tester or old plug in and it fires as you won't get a spark if the crank (or cam) sensor is dead.
DTC's aren't always black and white, often they can be triggered because of another fault...
Also see what the rev counter does- this is driven directly by the crank trigger so if it does jump when cranking the sensor is likely OK.

Last edited by Ads9; 24-04-2019 at 13:12..
Ads9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24-04-2019, 15:37   #5
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Thanks again for the response.

The car has been struggling with starts for about 4 months (up to January this year). At first I thought it was just cold starts, then it was all the time. It would struggle to start and then after 3 or 4 attempts would start (would turn over and not start repeatedly and then start)

Replaced the battery in January but the problem continued. Parked the car up.

Car hadn't been driven since January and the battery died. I recharged it and car started on Thursday night at second time of asking. Drove around for 20 mins and parked up. Next morning tried starting the car and it would turn over but not start. Tried 3 times - turning over but no start.

Evoscan didn't show any DTC's so I flashed the codes.. Got 22 and 32 which is Map and Crank sensors. Checked the MAP but had a split pipe to the boost gauge from manifold so removed the piece and put back OEM pipe (so boost gauge is not getting vaccum/boost).

Next cheapest item is the Crank sensor so ordered an OEM sensor and waiti g for delivery.

Plugs look OK and coils are OK too. Checked fuel pump and appears OK.
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-04-2019, 03:58   #6
Ads9
Senior User
 
Ads9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gatwick
Car: EVO IX FQ320, Honda Fireblade & Nissan Navara
My Car
Posts: 2,156
Has the car been remapped to run SD instead of the MAF sensor? Was anything changed just before this issue started (major service, etc)?
I'd still confirm the spark, may be worth disconnecting the fuel pump resistor pack (or each injector), so you don't put a load of fuel into the cylinders while cranking.
I've heard of the cam sensor failing and giving the type of intermittent fault you have and that's a whole lot easier to swap out, but think you may have already done that?
Watching your video of starting, it almost sounds like the starter is struggling and if it still starts fine when warm that points to the starter in my mind. As already said, the coolant temp sensor may be worth a shout, but given you have evoscan you can easily confirm that is working.
Normal lead acid batteries really don't like being run flat, it may be worth getting somewhere to test it for you and if necessary have it replaced, as they mostly carry a 3 year warranty. If you can put some jump leads from another running car on and crank it, that would be a worthwhile test.
Failing that, if you're set on changing the crank sensor, give yourself 2-4 hours to do it.
Ads9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-04-2019, 09:27   #7
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Again - thanks for the response.

No the car is not mapped.

The only thing changed was I added a boost gauge. Found a split on the (supplied) pipe for the gauge so removed the joint and went back to the OEM pipe.

Yes, I have already replaced the CAM sensor.

I may try the jump from another car and see how that goes.

I have ordered a starter motor and waiting on the crank sensor to arrive (should be here next week).

Will keep this thread updated.

The steps described above (in post #2) - are they in order? and (I assume) the car would be best on stands?

1. Aux belt off
2. power steering pump off (3 bolts on the pump and 4 on the bracket)
3. Engine mount off, jack underneath.
4. Water pump pulley off,
5. Crank pulley off,
6. Aux belt idler off (may need to lower the engine to get the bolt out)
7. Then get the covers off, 2 small bolts and the sensor is out.

Thanks again
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-04-2019, 10:24   #8
Ads9
Senior User
 
Ads9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gatwick
Car: EVO IX FQ320, Honda Fireblade & Nissan Navara
My Car
Posts: 2,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Salter View Post
Again - thanks for the response.

No the car is not mapped.

The only thing changed was I added a boost gauge. Found a split on the (supplied) pipe for the gauge so removed the joint and went back to the OEM pipe.

Yes, I have already replaced the CAM sensor.

I may try the jump from another car and see how that goes.

I have ordered a starter motor and waiting on the crank sensor to arrive (should be here next week).

Will keep this thread updated.

The steps described above (in post #2) - are they in order? and (I assume) the car would be best on stands?

1. Aux belt off
2. power steering pump off (3 bolts on the pump and 4 on the bracket)
3. Engine mount off, jack underneath.
4. Water pump pulley off,
5. Crank pulley off,
6. Aux belt idler off (may need to lower the engine to get the bolt out)
7. Then get the covers off, 2 small bolts and the sensor is out.

Thanks again
Can you think of anything you may have disturbed when adding the gauge tubing? The wiring can be brittle, especially at the Cam sensor due to exhaust heat so check accessible plugs haven't got a pin pushed back.

Have you confirmed the spark by cranking, or even watching the tacho jump, both of which would suggest the crank trigger isn't the issue? Obviously no harm replacing a 15+ year old sensor but you could progress fault finding in the meantime if it appears OK.

Yes that sequence is the order as I recall- I strongly suggest doing the PAS pump and bracket as the first and last job- it makes getting to the engine mount easier. The bracket is separate to the AC pump. The PAS bracket has 2 bolts from the front and 2 from the side.
I would jack the car up by the front tow point on the N/S bar and then stands under the front subframe. You don't need the drivers wheel off (but it won't hurt taking it off first) as the splash guard (on 7-9) is in sections, one of which as 4 clips holding it in that can be removed in situ.
To get the water pump pulley off a 1/4" ratchet an 10mm socket from within the engine mount bracket (hence after the engine mount is removed), rotate 90 deg until all 4 are out.
You can use a 3 or 4mm Allen key as a pin to hold the aux tensioner back before removing it.
Hope that helps.
Ads9 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ads9 For This Useful Post:
Jim Salter (29-04-2019)
Old 30-04-2019, 13:58   #9
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ads9 View Post
Can you think of anything you may have disturbed when adding the gauge tubing? The wiring can be brittle, especially at the Cam sensor due to exhaust heat so check accessible plugs haven't got a pin pushed back.

Have you confirmed the spark by cranking, or even watching the tacho jump, both of which would suggest the crank trigger isn't the issue? Obviously no harm replacing a 15+ year old sensor but you could progress fault finding in the meantime if it appears OK.

Yes that sequence is the order as I recall- I strongly suggest doing the PAS pump and bracket as the first and last job- it makes getting to the engine mount easier. The bracket is separate to the AC pump. The PAS bracket has 2 bolts from the front and 2 from the side.
I would jack the car up by the front tow point on the N/S bar and then stands under the front subframe. You don't need the drivers wheel off (but it won't hurt taking it off first) as the splash guard (on 7-9) is in sections, one of which as 4 clips holding it in that can be removed in situ.
To get the water pump pulley off a 1/4" ratchet an 10mm socket from within the engine mount bracket (hence after the engine mount is removed), rotate 90 deg until all 4 are out.
You can use a 3 or 4mm Allen key as a pin to hold the aux tensioner back before removing it.
Hope that helps.
Quick response (for now)

Replaced the starter motor and it is not the source of teh issue.

Will respond fully later
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2019, 17:37   #10
nplatenkamp
Senior User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Germany
My Car
Posts: 831
Hi, I would test the crank sensor first to make sure it needs replacing.
Because it is a horrible pile of work, the crank pulley could be a real pain.

I tested it with a simple multimeter (evo 6) : ignition on, measure volt on pin 89.
Should 0 or 5 V. (turn crankshaft with a wrench to activate /de-activate the sensor)
nplatenkamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 08:41   #11
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ads9 View Post
Can you think of anything you may have disturbed when adding the gauge tubing? The wiring can be brittle, especially at the Cam sensor due to exhaust heat so check accessible plugs haven't got a pin pushed back.

Have you confirmed the spark by cranking, or even watching the tacho jump, both of which would suggest the crank trigger isn't the issue? Obviously no harm replacing a 15+ year old sensor but you could progress fault finding in the meantime if it appears OK.

Yes that sequence is the order as I recall- I strongly suggest doing the PAS pump and bracket as the first and last job- it makes getting to the engine mount easier. The bracket is separate to the AC pump. The PAS bracket has 2 bolts from the front and 2 from the side.
I would jack the car up by the front tow point on the N/S bar and then stands under the front subframe. You don't need the drivers wheel off (but it won't hurt taking it off first) as the splash guard (on 7-9) is in sections, one of which as 4 clips holding it in that can be removed in situ.
To get the water pump pulley off a 1/4" ratchet an 10mm socket from within the engine mount bracket (hence after the engine mount is removed), rotate 90 deg until all 4 are out.
You can use a 3 or 4mm Allen key as a pin to hold the aux tensioner back before removing it.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the reply and apologies for the delay in replying.

Don't think anything was disturbed when installing the gauge. The issue wasn't immediately after installing the gauge....about a month later.

I haven't confirmed the spark by cranking, or watching the tacho jump (not quite sure what you mean by this)

The crank sensor arrived yesterday and tbh, I'm not in the mood for pulling the car apart today. I'm kinda lost as it has been about 7 years since I worked on an Evo and really haven't been working on any of my cars in the last 4 years

I may just get it trailered to a local specialist.
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2019, 09:16   #12
Benzo
User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Tamworth
Car: Evo 8 FQ300
My Car
Posts: 56
What he means, is crank the car and see of the tacho shows any rpm while cranking. If it does, you crank sensor is fine.
__________________
Evo 8 FQ300, Palma red
Benzo is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Benzo For This Useful Post:
Ads9 (05-05-2019)
Old 05-05-2019, 10:51   #13
Ads9
Senior User
 
Ads9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gatwick
Car: EVO IX FQ320, Honda Fireblade & Nissan Navara
My Car
Posts: 2,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Salter View Post
Thanks for the reply and apologies for the delay in replying.

Don't think anything was disturbed when installing the gauge. The issue wasn't immediately after installing the gauge....about a month later.

I haven't confirmed the spark by cranking, or watching the tacho jump (not quite sure what you mean by this)

The crank sensor arrived yesterday and tbh, I'm not in the mood for pulling the car apart today. I'm kinda lost as it has been about 7 years since I worked on an Evo and really haven't been working on any of my cars in the last 4 years

I may just get it trailered to a local specialist.
Part timer!

As below, when you crank the car watch the tacho and see if it shows any RPM reading. If it does nothing then it may well be the crank sensor. If not, the issue is elsewhere.
Have you had a good look over the cam sensor plug/ wiring?

As another thought have you checked the ground connections- there is a small one at the thermostat housing, near the cam sensor and if you look at the wiring diagrams in the manuals it will show a couple of others. Will do no harm if you clean the mating face of these on the engine as well as the main grounds.
Ads9 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Ads9 For This Useful Post:
Jim Salter (07-05-2019)
Old 07-05-2019, 22:11   #14
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzo View Post
What he means, is crank the car and see of the tacho shows any rpm while cranking. If it does, you crank sensor is fine.
Cranked the car this evening - no movement on rev counter
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2019, 22:14   #15
Jim Salter
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 580
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ads9 View Post
Part timer!

As below, when you crank the car watch the tacho and see if it shows any RPM reading. If it does nothing then it may well be the crank sensor. If not, the issue is elsewhere.
Have you had a good look over the cam sensor plug/ wiring?

As another thought have you checked the ground connections- there is a small one at the thermostat housing, near the cam sensor and if you look at the wiring diagrams in the manuals it will show a couple of others. Will do no harm if you clean the mating face of these on the engine as well as the main grounds.
I know yeah, haven't had the time to really work on this car since bringing it in from Japan in 2016, between blowing the auto box, replacing with a 5 speed from a 5 RS and then replacing with a 5 speed from a VII haven't had much time (or inclination) to get 'stuck in'.

Turned over the car this evening and there is nothing on the dash cluster (no RPM).

I have checked connections, grounds and the areas around the sensors I replaced.

Next Saturday I will replace the crank sensor
Jim Salter is offline   Reply With Quote
Mitsubishi Lancer Register
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Evo 10 OBDII fault codes stu8 ECU / Mapping 6 17-01-2018 17:56
Crank sensor Barto Technical Questions 2 03-07-2017 17:51
Evo 7 AYC & ABS Codes - Help! magsmagsmags Gearbox / Clutch / Transmission 13 21-11-2012 17:13
Engine light Dark Mak Technical Questions 13 08-08-2012 05:32
Evo 8 ABS light on!! Evo8Frankie Brakes 26 28-07-2012 05:30



All times are GMT. The time now is 14:46.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.