need some info on lc-1 wideband [Archive] - Mitsubishi Lancer Register Forum

need some info on lc-1 wideband

xpro
26-02-2008, 18:50
im looking to get one of this,looked around but didnt get all the info so i need some advice from expert users.
When you buy lc-1,do you get everything you need or you have to buy some other bits,and which way does it come.And also do you connect to your laptop by usb or some other way,i couldnt make it out by looking at pics.
Which way are they installed,is it permanent install,or only when car is being tuned?
Im still in doubt beetwen lc1 and aem uego since noth of the are laptop compatible.
thanks phil

youngsyr
26-02-2008, 18:54
im looking to get one of this,looked around but didnt get all the info so i need some advice from expert users.
When you buy lc-1,do you get everything you need or you have to buy some other bits,and which way does it come.And also do you connect to your laptop by usb or some other way,i couldnt make it out by looking at pics.
Which way are they installed,is it permanent install,or only when car is being tuned?
Im still in doubt beetwen lc1 and aem uego since noth of the are laptop compatible.
thanks phil


LC-1 comes with everything you need to fit it for a permanent install, although some minor soldering/rewiring and tapping and welding the boss onto your downpipe/decat may be required depending on what you have there already.

It comes with standard 9 pin serial out (male) so if you don't have serial in on your laptop (like me), you'll need a serial 9 pin to usb adapter, these can be had for 5.

LC-1 can be permanently installed or temporary install, but you will need something to hold it in the tail pipe if temporary, innovate do a pipe for this.

burgers22
26-02-2008, 20:02
Magnex decats come with 2 bosses in them, so maybe consider one of those. I've tapped into the power feed and earth for the radio. Helpfully Mitsi have put a rubber bung in the transmission tunnel, just back from the clutch rest, a bit of a jiggle gets the sensor through it.

MB

xpro
26-02-2008, 20:04
thanks for that
i never asked how do you power it up,is it tru usb cable or do you have to join the wires.i watched the inovative video,but didnt realy make sense to me:wallbang:

youngsyr
26-02-2008, 20:08
thanks for that younsyr.
i never asked how do you power it up,is it tru usb cable or do you have to join the wires.i watched the inovative video,but didnt realy make sense to me:wallbang:

It needs its own power from a switched ignition source as well as a decent earth connection.

Mine takes switched power from behind the stereo and has the four (yes four!) earths connected to a chocolate block which has one dedicated and larger earth wire coming out the other side that is directly routed to the battery.

I know some people who have just wired both the power and earths from the cigarette lighter with no problems though.

cossie1
26-02-2008, 22:02
I will be connecting mine directly to the ecu connections I think, as that way when you crank the car over, it won't cut the power and restart the warmup cycle.

I do have 1 question myself though.

I've bought a used LC-1 thats already been calibrated, so do I need to wire up the switch and led still ? The instructions weren't to clear on that.

burgers22
26-02-2008, 22:19
The heater draws down quite a bit of current and should be fused. I'd not really recommend connecting to the ECU loom, plus the wires are piddly little things there and the area behind the radio is much easier to get to. The heater warm up cycle is really short, especially with the new beta firmware, it will make cuff all difference to any logging you do if you eliminate the warm up after cranking.

I fitted the switch to do the calibration with, but if I did it again I wouldn't bother as it's easier to do it with a laptop and you can see all is well. Fitting the LED gives a bit of a comfort factor, so I think thats worth it.

MB

cossie1
26-02-2008, 22:23
The heater draws down quite a bit of current and should be fused. I'd not really recommend connecting to the ECU loom, plus the wires are piddly little things there and the area behind the radio is much easier to get to. The heater warm up cycle is really short, especially with the new beta firmware, it will make cuff all difference to any logging you do if you eliminate the warm up after cranking.

I fitted the switch to do the calibration with, but if I did it again I wouldn't bother as it's easier to do it with a laptop and you can see all is well. Fitting the LED gives a bit of a comfort factor, so I think thats worth it.

MB

Ok no need for the switch then :D

Might just get another led and fit it next to the 1 I have fitted for the alternate map.

Red for the lambda and change the ecu to green or blue I guess (as the red one I fitted it a bit bright tbh, even though it's not in direct eyeline).

K-evo
27-02-2008, 07:45
Only problem i've had over the 18month's i've used mine is when i updated the firmware to the Beta version, then i could not connect through my usb converter. Had to find a laptop with a serial port.
Max current i've seen whilst Lambda heating is 7amps iirc.

Data logging the AFR's is cool!

Good product i'd have another

burgers22
27-02-2008, 08:51
Only problem i've had over the 18month's i've used mine is when i updated the firmware to the Beta version, then i could not connect through my usb converter. Had to find a laptop with a serial port.

Were you using Logworks 3 to connect? I think the same happened to me using Logworks 2, but 3 was fine.

MB

K-evo
27-02-2008, 17:52
Your right Logworks 2, will get update and retry:smthumbup